FROM OUR 7 APRIl 2005 ISSUE

food

When eight is clearly more than enough

It's a sad fact of life that often when old landmark Brisbane pubs are tarted up, the owners feel their food prices have to go up too, if not to match the new salubrious surroundings then at least help pay for the renovations. You wander along to the revamped watering hole only to discover you don't have enough ready cash for a down-payment on a basic pub meal such as the good old bangers and mash.
Well, here's some good news. The Metro on Gipps (the old Bonaparte's) up on the corner of Gipps Street and St Pauls Terrace overlooking the Valley heart, has had a major facelift of recent times, but the tucker remains within the price range of poorly paid columnists such as yours truly.
Last Friday, I wandered up to the Metro with this newspaper's editor and its esteemed wine writer, and all three of us were delighted to find their dining room's current promo is something called "Eight for Eight". Basically, that's eight lunch specials Monday to Friday for $8 each - a menu that boasts sufficient variety to cater for most tastes.
My companions being knockabout sorts of chaps immediately ordered the bangers and garlic mash, while the writer opted for the crumbed hoki served with chunky chips (they were), tartare sauce (heaps of it) and a bowl of fresh salad (nice variety too). It was thumbs up from all three for the quality - and quantity - of the tucker, and especially for the generous sized serves of a couple of wines we ordered by the glass.
Don Gordon-Brown
Metro on Gipps. Lunch Monday to Friday. Phone 3252 8355. Menu also includes a range of other meals.

Authentic value

Since opening in Spring Hill a couple of months ago, Bishamon Japanese Restaurant has captured the hearts and appetites of the fussy locals. On a traditionally quiet post-Valentine's Day evening, there was a steady stream of locals sharing quick meals and grabbing fresh and tasty takeaway.
Soon after being swiftly seated at one of the large windows overlooking the action of Boundary Street, my dining companion "Mr Dreamboat" and I enjoyed a tofu appetiser topped with minced chilli pork and whisper-thin slices of fresh snow pea.
This was closely followed by kimizue ae - fresh sashimi scallops and avocado with egg yolk vinegar sauce. Mr Dreamboat remarked the scallops were "melt in the mouth" and his choice of a BYO $10 chardonnay was a very sensible one.
We agreed a light bubbly would also be a good match for this delicate and flavoursome food.
We had a short break and Keiko Takase took us through the leafy courtyard, which is proving to be a very popular retreat for the lunchtime crowd and will soon be available for alfresco evening dining. The restaurant's lovely old building on the corner of Boundary and North streets is a superb setting for such an establishment and a series of restaurants have resided there in the last few decades.
The beautiful blue, two-storey hip-roofed structure with its wrought iron balustrading was constructed in 1890. It operated as a large grocery store with a series of proprietors including an Edward A. Wilcox in the latter part of the 1800s. Butchers and jewellers followed in the early 1900s.
Bishamon's fresh new interior works well with the building's original features, such as the rustic interior walls of handmade bricks imported from England.
Back at our table we share gyoza - pan-fried dumplings that arrive sizzling. Keiko said the lunchtime crowd were fond of these and it was not hard to see why. Served with soy vinegar, the savoury parcels with their wholesome blend of ginger, pork and shitakes are crisp and disappear within seconds.
The dishes from the specials board are fresh, flavoursome and everything is perfectly balanced.
Stir-fried cuttlefish, presented in a fresh lettuce cup, tantalised with their light smoky aroma. The unique combination of shallots and ginger wrapped in coral trout were also devoured in a flash.
The teppanyaki was fired up and we made a move so as not to miss the talented Toshi Takase prepare our Darling Downs Wagyu rib steak.
It was an Iron Chef experience to watch Toshi sear scallops and a takeaway chicken dish on the teppanyaki.
Keiko is from Yokohama and Toshi from Osaka and have had nearly twenty years experience in the industry, both in Australia and Japan.
Our steak was served with three dipping sauces, an earthy and restorative miso soup, garlic chips and bean sprouts, shallots and peppers.
Bishamon's menu offers noodles and hot pots, and the lunchtime selection includes quick and hearty staples such as chicken teriyaki, agedashi tofu, Japanese curry and sushi.
The dishes are exquisitely presented and Keiko has a vast knowledge of the ingredients and preparation techniques.
Bishamon's prices are very reasonable given the generous portions. Entrees are $8, mains from $15 to $20, Wagyu rib steak teppanyaki $28 and desserts $3 to $5. The set lunch menu meals are $8.
The kitchen and wait staff are efficient and attentive and plates are cleared and glasses of water refilled with no fuss.
For dessert, Mr Dreamboat and I shared green-tea flavoured creme caramel served with cream and red bean paste.
Keiko sent us on our merry way with some freshly prepared sushi for a midnight snack, but our tummies were so content we enjoyed it for lunch the next day.
If you're after authentic Japanese cuisine in a unique heritage setting, Bishamon is the place.
Mr Dreamboat reckoned he hadn't had authentic Japanese food like this since he lived in Sydney.
Megan Yarrow